Rederij Lampedusa

The small island of Lampedusa is Italy’s southernmost island. In spite of  the crystal clear, turquoise waters surrounding it, Lampedusa has become known as ‘the graveyard of boats’. Its proximity to both Tunisia and Libya’s major migration hubs makes Lampedusa a primary destination for those attempting to make the crossing, hoping to arrive  in Europe. Many of those who set out to make the dangerous journey perish, with only shipwrecks, some personal items or nameless graves to remember them by.

In 2015, when the so-called ‘refugee crisis’ was at its height, the Dutch artist Teun Castelein brought two former refugee boats to Amsterdam. On Alhadj Djumaa, translated to Mr. Friday, one line is written on the back of the vessel in Arabic: road to freedom, way of peace. The boat, only 12 meters long, carried a staggering 282 passengers, Eritrean and Somali nationals, all of whom arrived safely to Lampedusa. Less is known about the other, smaller boat now residing in Amsterdam, on which  only a pair of diving goggles was found. Its name ‘Hedir’, written on the side, has multiple meanings in Arabic: thunder, roar and powerful woman.

Rederij Lampedusa is as much about these two former refugee boats as it is about its crew. In the beginning, a small team, some of whom were part of the “We Are Here” refugee action collective, started working on the boats. Both Mr. Friday and Hedir were originally built to be fisherboats, in areas where it rarely rains, and after having survived their journeys from the African coast were now facing the cold, rainy and wet conditions in Amsterdam. The crew worked extensively to make the boats fit for the canals, while also keeping their original look and features. In this process, the people involved learnt how to swim, how to be captains, and how to tell stories.

Ever since then, the Rederij Lampedusa sails the Amsterdam waters with a crucial mission: to provide a platform for refugees and migrants to tell their stories.

On the Canal Tours, guests get to experience Amsterdam from a different light, as the crew guides them through the city, unravelling its migration history. Migrants from different parts of the world have contributed to building the city from the time of its existence, but these influences are often overlooked. On board, next to those wanting to experience a non-conventional boat ride, are a captain and a storyteller, both with a refugee or migration background. Besides talking about Amsterdam’s history from a migration perspective, the storytellers also share their personal stories of why and how they ended up in the Netherlands, having to flee their countries. Our diverse crew with roots from Somalia, Kurdistan, Uganda, Colombia, Egypt, the Netherlands and more, works to create a new, shared understanding of Amsterdam as a city which sees and honours the talents of all of its inhabitants.

Amsterdam’s historic waterways have been the stage of our goal to foster an environment of listening, empathy and open-mindedness throughout the existence of our company. Two years ago, we extended these efforts into transforming Mr. Friday into a Floating Stage each season, featuring a diverse range of performances, all with a powerful connection to the lived experiences of migration.

Our cultural program provides a space for artists, both established and emerging, to showcase their virtuosity in storytelling, theatre, music, and drag.

The themes we explored this year were, among others, the ‘European dream’ and the Middle-Eastern migrant experience, the continuous effects of colonialism on society, notions of belonging and the generational wisdom stored in being people on the move. Whether a storytelling performance, a more interactive event, or a show featuring music and singing, these artists created a common acknowledgement of the incredibly rich, multi-layered society that ignites Amsterdam, of which migrants are an essential part of.

The journey of the Rederij Lampedusa, much like the crossing of the refugee boats, is not one without challenges. Permits, licenses and funding are constant pressures, as we operate as a non-profit, non-governmental organization, employing refugees and newcomers on Egyptian fisher boats. While we have received and continue to receive invaluable support from individuals, organizations, the municipality and so forth, we operate in a climate which has been turning worryingly towards viewing migration as a threat. It is especially in the face of these ideas of exclusion and criminalization that a celebratory narrative of migration and the cultural enrichment it brings to the city is ever so needed - and we keep providing just that.